Amazing Bhutan

The approach into Paro, between forested ridges with the Himalaya beyond, is one of the most dramatic landings in the world; sit on the left for the best view. Our guide and driver meet you outside arrivals, your arrival point (airport, railway station or hotel) at the agreed time, and complete the entry permit and SDF formalities if not done online. Drive about an hour and a half along the Paro and Thimphu rivers to the capital (about 2,300 m). After check-in, an evening walk through the town centre, where there are no traffic lights and a policeman directs cars by hand, and a look at the weekend market if it is a Saturday or Sunday.

Overnight: Thimphu

Start at the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king, where you can join the elderly Thimphu residents circling with prayer beads. Drive up to the Buddha Dordenma at Kuenselphodrang, a bronze seated Buddha over 50 m tall holding more than a hundred thousand smaller Buddhas inside, with a view down the whole valley. Then the Motithang takin preserve, home of Bhutan's odd national animal, the Changangkha Lhakhang on its ridge where Thimphu parents bring newborns for blessings, the Folk Heritage Museum in an old farmhouse, and the Sangaygang viewpoint. In the late afternoon, when the offices close, visit the Tashichho Dzong, the fortress-monastery that houses the throne room and the summer seat of the monastic body.

Overnight: Thimphu

Leave early for the climb to Dochula pass (about 3,100 m), 45 minutes from Thimphu, where 108 Druk Wangyal chortens stand on a knoll and, on a clear morning, the eastern Himalaya including Gangkhar Puensum lines the horizon. Descend through rhododendron and oak forest to the warm Punakha-Wangdue valley, then climb again through Wangdue Phodrang and dense forest to the Lawala pass and over into Phobjikha, a broad U-shaped glacial valley at about 3,000 m. Total driving about five to six hours with stops. Check in and walk in the valley before dinner.

Overnight: Phobjikha (Gangtey)

Visit the Gangtey Goemba, a 17th-century monastery of the Nyingma school on a ridge above the valley, recently restored, where young monks study in the courtyard. From the monastery follow the Gangtey nature trail, an easy walk of about an hour and a half downhill through pine forest and across the valley floor to the village of Khewang, passing the marsh where the cranes feed in winter. In the afternoon visit the Black-Necked Crane Information Centre, which has telescopes and a rescued crane, and, if open, the local community school. Evening free in a valley with almost no light pollution; the stars are remarkable.

Overnight: Phobjikha (Gangtey)

Drive down to Punakha (about 1,200 m), two hours, and visit the Punakha Dzong at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, built in 1637 and still the winter seat of the monastic body; its courtyards, carvings and the great assembly hall are the finest in Bhutan. Cross the long suspension bridge over the Pho Chhu, one of the longest in the country, then walk about 20 minutes through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the 15th-century saint Drukpa Kunley, visited by couples hoping for children. Return over Dochula and continue to Paro (about 2,200 m), roughly four hours of driving in all.

Overnight: Paro

An early start for Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, which clings to a cliff about 900 m above the valley floor at roughly 3,120 m. The trail climbs steadily through pine forest to a cafeteria at the halfway point, then on to a viewpoint level with the monastery, before a descent and climb of several hundred steps past a waterfall to the gate. Inside are the cave where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated in the 8th century and a cluster of temples rebuilt after a fire in 1998. Allow four to five hours in all; ponies can be hired to the halfway point. Afternoon rest, then a stroll to the Paro river bridge (Nyamai Zam), the 15th-century Jangtsa Dumtseg Lhakhang with its unusual chorten shape, and the Druk Choeding town temple.

Overnight: Paro

Drive up the valley road to Tachog Lhakhang and cross the iron-chain bridge attributed to the 15th-century bridge-builder Thangtong Gyalpo. Visit the Rinpung Dzong, Paro's fortress-monastery above the river, and the round Ta Dzong watchtower above it, now the National Museum, with its collection of thangkas, masks, arms and natural history. Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the two oldest temples in Bhutan, dating to the 7th century, is a quiet last stop. Afternoon for Paro's main street shops, an optional traditional hot-stone bath at a farmhouse, and a farewell dinner.

Overnight: Paro

Breakfast and transfer to Paro International Airport, your departure point (airport, railway station or hotel), for your flight. Flights depart in the morning, so the transfer is usually early.

Overnight: Not applicable (departure day)