Highlights & Route
This short North East tour joins the Shakti Peeth of Kamakhya with the hills of Meghalaya, the wettest and greenest corner of India. It begins and ends in Guwahati, which has direct flights from Delhi, so it fits into a five-day leave with no overnight train. One night is spent in Guwahati for the temples and three in Shillong, from where the day trips to Cherrapunji and Dawki are made and you return each evening to the same hotel.
Kamakhya on Nilachal hill is one of the most important Shakti Peeths in the country, where the goddess is worshipped in the form of a natural rock cleft rather than an idol. Umananda, on a small island in the Brahmaputra, is reached by a short ferry and is one of the smallest inhabited river islands in the world. From there the road climbs past Umiam Lake to Shillong at about 1,500 m, a town of pine trees, old churches and a bustling Police Bazaar.
The two full days in Meghalaya show two very different faces of the state. Cherrapunji (Sohra) is about rainfall and limestone: the Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters falls, the lit passages of Mawsmai cave and the longer Arwah cave with its fossils. Dawki is about the Umngot river, so clear in winter that boats seem to float on air, and nearby Mawlynnong, a Khasi village famous for its cleanliness, with a living root bridge a short walk away. Everything is by road in a private vehicle, with a good deal of time outdoors.
Route
Guwahati airport → Kamakhya and Umananda (1 night Guwahati) → Umiam Lake → Shillong (3 nights) → Cherrapunji day trip → Dawki and Mawlynnong day trip → Guwahati → airport drop
Good to know before you book
- Indian citizens need no permit for Assam or Meghalaya. Foreign nationals need no permit either, but must register at the Dawki border checkpost.
- The best months are October to April. The Umngot river at Dawki is clearest from November to March; in the monsoon (June to September) it turns brown and boating stops.
- Kamakhya temple opens early in the morning and closes for the afternoon; queues are long on weekends and during Ambubachi Mela in June. A paid fast-darshan ticket is available at the temple counter.
- Umananda ferries do not run when the Brahmaputra is in high flood, usually in the monsoon.
- Shillong to Cherrapunji is about 55 km and to Dawki about 80 km, each a two-hour drive on hill roads.
- Entry fees at caves, falls and parks, and boating at Dawki, are paid on the spot.
Yatra Highlights
- Darshan at Kamakhya Shakti Peeth and the island temple of Umananda
- Nohkalikai Falls, Seven Sisters Falls and the Mawsmai and Arwah caves at Cherrapunji
- Boat ride on the Umngot river at Dawki and the living root bridge at Mawlynnong
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